Basilica Cistern

Soon we’re in a forest of columns… Nearly 250 of them to be almost exact. In the back left corner are two Medusa head columns.

Constantinople was designed to withstand enemies. The ramparts were just part of the equation. Inside the city were thousands of cisterns – both above ground and underground. The Basilica Cistern was the largest, holding up to 100,000 tons (tons!) of water. It is across the street from Hagia Sophia in the center of the historical district. Its above-ground entrance building is small, almost invisible. We had dined right next to it without realizing where it was, so hidden it is. We get there before the line starts. Entry is via a very long straight downward flight of stairs. The temperature drops as does the light. And soon we’re in a forest of columns… Nearly 250 of them to be almost exact. In the back left corner are two Medusa head columns. Why are they there? After all, no one would have seen them. The simplest theory is that they were needed to make two other columns the right height. But why turn the one upside down? Fish swim around; they keep the water free of pollutants.

Riding Istanbul's Ferries

I walked across the Golden Horn on foot, and then walked back. That was mostly in search of a good fish sandwich, the kind Istanbul is so well known for.

Our tram pass was also good for the ferry. Our tram rides and ferry rides were only about $.65 each! The ferry is great: it’s comfortable, spacious, quiet, stable, smooth even in semi-choppy waters, it has a hot beverage and snack bar. We bought hot tea for .75 TL ($.25). Best of all, the view is unlike any other city in the world: better than New York, San Francisco, Oslo, you name it. It may even be better than Venice! Throw in power outlets and WiFi, and this would be my perfect office.

Look at these views.... We went to Asia and back. Once back on the European side, we exited our ferry (walking past the hard to resist sesame breads) and were back in the Enimonu area. This is where they have the famous boats that sell fish sandwiches: balik etmek.

The great Galata Bridge... it's like London Bridge inverted: the road is on top, but the eateries are on the bottom at water level, the waves lapping at them.

We cross the Galata Bridge, vowing to come back for a fish sandwich. Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn. We cross it on foot and then decide to take another ferry to Asia. The second ferry is much more rustic. Clearly, it’s older. The main deck has well-worn wood planking, and it’s smaller. I’m guess it’s from the 1930s to the 1970s. But we like it too, and in a few minutes, we are on our way back to Istanbul’s Asian side.

From the ferry, I count 29 ships waiting maybe a few kilometers behind our hotel….
The Turks are incredibly generous. At each and every turn, they helped us with directions, language and offered food. For instance, on the second ferry, we sat opposite three Turkish ladies who insisted we share their sesame bread. The same thing had happened at the Museum of Islam and Antiquities, where an Iraqi lady insisted on us having one of her breads.

Imagined dialog: So what did you do today?

Not much. I went from Europe to Asia to Europe to Asia and back to Europe in the space of a couple of hours. Indeed, five continents in two hours, ha, ha… I did that by boat, but I also walked across the Golden Horn on foot, and then walked back. That was mostly in search of a good fish sandwich, the kind Istanbul is so well known for.

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